My Tropical Birthday Vacation!!! - U.S.V.I Part 5

January 22, 2013
We’re lucky enough to get seats on the upper deck of the ferry to Charlotte Amalie, so we’re treated to sunshine, a warm breeze, and a good view of St. Thomas’s coastline - rocky cliffs with multi-million dollar homes and resorts scattered across the hillside. As we approach the port, two looming cruise ships dominate the view, and it’s clear that this island is definitely more developed than St. John’s. It also has a much different vibe than St. John; it’s crowded with bustling cruise-trippers and barkers trying to entice you into their shops (at least in downtown). Charlotte Amalie is considered downtown, and it’s streets are full of stores. When we kept passing jewelry store after jewelry store, we began to wonder why, until we realized that St. Thomas is duty-free - a lot of money can be saved by not paying taxes on an expensive purchase. (I wasn’t in the market for any glittery, posh jewelry, so we didn't enter these shops, but I did find a nice pair of locally made metal earrings at the open market near the dock.) 

Merchants sailing to the islands for sugar cane would need weights in their boats for the journey. When they reached the islands, these weights would be unloaded to make space for the heavy sugar cane. Islanders used the rocks, shells, and coral to build walls. 

We seek out Blackbeard’s Castle, which includes climbing a flight of 99 stairs, but it’s really just a hotel. 

It’s late afternoon, so we decide against taking a taxi over to Magen’s Bay, even though I would have liked to see it. Instead, we relax on the patio of our hotel and wait for the sun to set over the islands in the distance.

Ahhh, to have a warm shower! Unfortunately, it’s still not enough to rinse all the sand from my hair. :(

Charlotte Amalie definitely quiets down after most of the tourists have returned to their cruise ships. Because of this, most of the shops and many restaurants are closed, too. We enjoy a pleasant dinner on a tiny patio that we have all to ourselves.

In bed, the nighttime sounds of waves and frogs and rain are replaced by the loud and constant hum of an air-conditioning unit. I appreciate the bed big enough for two and the shower with warm water, but I think I appreciate nature’s cacophony more.

My Tropical Birthday Vacation!!! - U.S.V.I Part 2

January 19, 2013
We’ve arrived! The weather is warm and tropical, and the easy sound of an island accent floats in the air. The man working the taxi area officiously takes charge, informing me that there’s not enough time to catch the ferry from Charlotte Amalie, so we’ll have to go to Red Hook. Taxis are done differently here; instead of a meter charging you for the duration of the ride, each passenger pays a set price depending on your destination. So, taxis accommodate eight to ten passengers going to the same destination or somewhere along the way.

Cruzy Bay, the main port of St. John, is filled with shops and restaurants, but it’s a compact town and easily walkable. After picking up some food and drinks (we plan to fix our own breakfasts and lunches to save money as well as prevent interruption of our beach time) at the Dolphin Mart, we pick up our rented Ford Focus. It’s easy to drive around the island, since there are only a few main roads, as long as you remember to stay on the left side of the road. In case you forget, they’ve considerately painted arrows on the street every so often to help you remember.


And I would definitely recommend a car on this island; while not large, the towns and bays and beaches are separated by steep, twisty roads that makes everything not as close as it would seem if you’re just looking at the map. There are taxi services available, but if you are planning to spend more than a day here, I think you’ll appreciate the flexibility of deciding where and when you want to go.

Along the way to Cinnamon Bay Campground, we stop to walk the short distance to the top of Peace Hill, where we’re treated to a beautiful view, and to check out Hawksnest Bay, where we’re treated to a beautiful beach (you’ll begin to notice a theme soon, if you haven’t already). 

The amazing view from Peace Hill

Hawksnest Beach

We’ve rented a furnished tent for three nights (campsite # 21), and we’re delighted to discover its close proximity to the beach, a short path maybe twenty yards long. The tent is sparse, but it has the necessities: four cots (our biggest surprise, we laughed when we realized we wouldn’t be sharing a bed), a bin and a cooler for food storage, and sheets/towels. Outside, there is a picnic table, and a propane grill with a lantern attached. Cinnamon Bay has it’s own beautiful beach, of course, so we doze in the sun for an hour or so, feeling a little tired from our lack of sleep the night before.

It’s late afternoon when we drive out toward the east side of the island (Cruz Bay is on the western point). The road is crazy steep with hairpin turns and barely enough space for two vehicles to pass each other. Feral donkeys are moseying around and munching grass on the side of the road. We take the road to Salt Pond Bay and watch the sunset from the empty beach, the silhouettes of moored sailboats swaying in the sea, black against an orange horizon. 

Driving back to Cinnamon Bay later that night, the radio plays the electric slide, reggae-style. Laying on my tiny cot, the coqui frogs are singing in full force, and that’s when I realize that they’re actually singing, “coo-kie, coo-kie, coo-kie.” I  must have been one of these frogs in a past life; it explains why I like cookies so much. Another voice adds to the cacophony; it makes me think of a woodpecker banging against a steel drum - tink tink tink tink. The crashing waves lull me to sleep, but every now and again I’m jolted by a thunderous, booming wave.