My Tropical Birthday Vacation!!! - U.S.V.I Part 5

January 22, 2013
We’re lucky enough to get seats on the upper deck of the ferry to Charlotte Amalie, so we’re treated to sunshine, a warm breeze, and a good view of St. Thomas’s coastline - rocky cliffs with multi-million dollar homes and resorts scattered across the hillside. As we approach the port, two looming cruise ships dominate the view, and it’s clear that this island is definitely more developed than St. John’s. It also has a much different vibe than St. John; it’s crowded with bustling cruise-trippers and barkers trying to entice you into their shops (at least in downtown). Charlotte Amalie is considered downtown, and it’s streets are full of stores. When we kept passing jewelry store after jewelry store, we began to wonder why, until we realized that St. Thomas is duty-free - a lot of money can be saved by not paying taxes on an expensive purchase. (I wasn’t in the market for any glittery, posh jewelry, so we didn't enter these shops, but I did find a nice pair of locally made metal earrings at the open market near the dock.) 

Merchants sailing to the islands for sugar cane would need weights in their boats for the journey. When they reached the islands, these weights would be unloaded to make space for the heavy sugar cane. Islanders used the rocks, shells, and coral to build walls. 

We seek out Blackbeard’s Castle, which includes climbing a flight of 99 stairs, but it’s really just a hotel. 

It’s late afternoon, so we decide against taking a taxi over to Magen’s Bay, even though I would have liked to see it. Instead, we relax on the patio of our hotel and wait for the sun to set over the islands in the distance.

Ahhh, to have a warm shower! Unfortunately, it’s still not enough to rinse all the sand from my hair. :(

Charlotte Amalie definitely quiets down after most of the tourists have returned to their cruise ships. Because of this, most of the shops and many restaurants are closed, too. We enjoy a pleasant dinner on a tiny patio that we have all to ourselves.

In bed, the nighttime sounds of waves and frogs and rain are replaced by the loud and constant hum of an air-conditioning unit. I appreciate the bed big enough for two and the shower with warm water, but I think I appreciate nature’s cacophony more.

My Tropical Birthday Vacation!!! - U.S.V.I. Part 4

January 21, 2013
This morning we got up early; actually, I always get up early when I’m camping. It’s something about the sun rising and being outdoors that really makes me want to start the day. And when your plans involve the most popular beach on the island, it’s an especially good idea. We arrived at Trunk Bay around 9:00 am, and we had it mostly to ourselves, which provided unobstructed views and a peaceful tranquility. (I think these are the best conditions for enjoying nature.) We were able to choose our “perfect” spot on the nearly empty beach, but our solitude didn't last long; as more and more people arrived, their towels and loud voices inevitably encroached. On beaches, you must relinquish the concept of personal space. All the beaches on St. John are beautiful, but in our opinion, this one is the nicest (except for the crowds). We spend hours basking in the sun, baking to a crispy pinkish hue, and regretting not applying sunscreen sooner.

We walk in the soft, white sand and swim in the sea. The waves are a little choppy today, making the visibility of the reef murky. There are plenty of colorful fish, but it’s mostly barren of living coral. 

I’m actually getting better at my cold shower routine - yay! - but the trickling stream has nowhere near enough pressure to rinse the sand out of my hair that I acquired when a wave knocked me down and dragged me through the sandy surf. I scratch my head all night, grit lodging beneath my fingernails and sandruff sprinkling onto my tank top.

We drive into Cruz Bay for the evening and meander around a bit, finding a good spot to watch the sunset, having a drink at St. John’s Brewery Tap Room - some of the best root beer I’ve ever had! At Gecko Gazebo, a tiny outdoor bar, I try the Chocolate Banana Bushwacker, a frozen concoction of seven liquors mixed with fresh banana and chocolate syrup. It’s yummy - and effective.

My Tropical Birthday Vacation!!! - U.S.V.I Part 3

January 20, 2013
Happy birthday to me!!! When I get up in the middle of the night, Nick sings me Happy Birthday. :)

In the morning, a parade of soldier crabs traverses our campsite; you have to watch where you step. I think they are returning to the forest after their nightly foray to the ocean. 

It’s a short drive to Francis Bay, where we snorkel in the turquoise blue water with a blessedly mild-temperature. I fully expect to see turtles, based on someone else’s experience, but not a one. A small disappointment. The coral is mostly dead, but there are some large and small schools of fish swimming about, and some colorful, tropical fish, too. 

East End is just that - an end. No beach, no bay, no nothing except private drives and property, so we turn around. We keep driving across the island, down any road that’s paved. Eventually, we end up in Cruz Bay, and we decide to stop for lunch. Next up, is a short, downhill hike to Honeymoon Beach from the Biosphere Reserve parking lot, but we don’t stay long. And it’s a good thing because it starts to rain as we trek uphill back to the car. A small disappointment. We wait out the rain in our car and then spend some time laying out on Hawksnest Beach. It’s more cloud bathing than sunbathing. Today, the weather has been more of a dreary, drippy, overcast day, than a sunny, tropical beach vacation day. A small disappointment. We eventually give up and return to Cinnamon Bay, where we don’t find any sun, either. So, we give up on beach time and decide to just go start drinking instead.

I’ve come to a realization: Not only do I extremely dislike cold showers, but I don’t like tolerating them either. I would rather skip showering, but that’s hard to do when your hair is full of salt and sand. On my next beach vacation, I think I might splurge for an actual hotel room, so cleaning off is refreshing, rather than torture. But I survive, and it does feel good being clean.

The restaurant I chose for my birthday dinner is mysteriously closed (it’s normally open on Sunday). A small disappointment. There are a few other restaurants nearby, but nothing that captures our eye tonight. The only other option is to drive over to Cruz Bay, on the opposite end of the island. We take Centerline Road, which runs down the center of the island. We’re about a mile away from town when we turn a corner and traffic comes to an abrupt stop. There is a long line of red brake lights glaring back at us. We never get close enough to see what happened, but after about ten minutes, cars begin turning around, and we do the same. I guess the roads are so narrow that if an accident happens, it become impassable. So, we have to drive all the back to Coral Harbor where we can cross over to North Shore Road, which runs along the coast. And then we still have to drive the entire length of this road before we reach Cruz Bay. Yet another disappointment. My stomach is growling and grumbling and voicing all sorts of dissent by the time we park almost two hours later.

It’s during this third cross-island commute of the evening when all the little disappointments of the day swirl unbidden in my mind. The bay devoid of turtles and the dead coral. The overcast weather and rain. The closed restaurant. Too much time in a car. And it hits me: oh my god, I have the TRAVELER’S CURSE. Basically, the more you see and experience as you travel, the more you discover beautiful little bits and pieces of our world. The problem is, they’re never all in one place. So I find myself, on this beautiful tropical island vacation that every single person I know is envious of, comparing the dead reefs to the vibrant coral I snorkeled through in Hawaii; the yucky weather to the warm, sunny beach days I experienced in Costa Rica; the dingy cot and frigid shower to the big, comfy bed and warm shower I could escape to at the all-inclusive resort in Cancun. I’ve had so many incredible experiences that I can not simply enjoy a new one without comparison. Hmmm, this will have to change...

Dinner is lovely (and the two drinks definitely perk up my dampened spirits). As a birthday treat, I get to order my own dessert! Yay!! (Of course, I eat some of Nick’s, too.)

Sometime during the middle of the night, my eyes open and I’m wide awake. I silently step barefoot to the beach and sit in the sand, a starry sky above and the high tide almost reaching my toes. And I discover that I’m ready to cultivate an inner calm, a state without positive or negative. I’ve learned this, but I’ve resisted in the past, because I didn’t want to give up happiness. Who wants to let go of that high? But now I realize that happiness is a dangerous emotion. It’s difficult to perpetually sustain because if I honestly judge my circumstances and experiences, they don’t always evoke happiness. And when the door is open for this positive emotion, it provides space for negative emotions to fill the void when it’s missing. They are yin and yang; one can’t exist without the other. I wouldn’t understand the pleasure of happy if I never experienced the devastation of sad. Happiness is based on judgement, altered by expectations, founded on preconceived notions. I don’t want to live in a world of judgement and expectations anymore, where I can be disappointed as easily as I can be elated. Instead, I will strive to create an inner calm, a contentment with life, an acceptance of being as I am and as things are at that moment. I am grateful to this journey, to the cloudy skies, for helping me learn this lesson.

My Tropical Birthday Vacation!!! - U.S.V.I Part 2

January 19, 2013
We’ve arrived! The weather is warm and tropical, and the easy sound of an island accent floats in the air. The man working the taxi area officiously takes charge, informing me that there’s not enough time to catch the ferry from Charlotte Amalie, so we’ll have to go to Red Hook. Taxis are done differently here; instead of a meter charging you for the duration of the ride, each passenger pays a set price depending on your destination. So, taxis accommodate eight to ten passengers going to the same destination or somewhere along the way.

Cruzy Bay, the main port of St. John, is filled with shops and restaurants, but it’s a compact town and easily walkable. After picking up some food and drinks (we plan to fix our own breakfasts and lunches to save money as well as prevent interruption of our beach time) at the Dolphin Mart, we pick up our rented Ford Focus. It’s easy to drive around the island, since there are only a few main roads, as long as you remember to stay on the left side of the road. In case you forget, they’ve considerately painted arrows on the street every so often to help you remember.


And I would definitely recommend a car on this island; while not large, the towns and bays and beaches are separated by steep, twisty roads that makes everything not as close as it would seem if you’re just looking at the map. There are taxi services available, but if you are planning to spend more than a day here, I think you’ll appreciate the flexibility of deciding where and when you want to go.

Along the way to Cinnamon Bay Campground, we stop to walk the short distance to the top of Peace Hill, where we’re treated to a beautiful view, and to check out Hawksnest Bay, where we’re treated to a beautiful beach (you’ll begin to notice a theme soon, if you haven’t already). 

The amazing view from Peace Hill

Hawksnest Beach

We’ve rented a furnished tent for three nights (campsite # 21), and we’re delighted to discover its close proximity to the beach, a short path maybe twenty yards long. The tent is sparse, but it has the necessities: four cots (our biggest surprise, we laughed when we realized we wouldn’t be sharing a bed), a bin and a cooler for food storage, and sheets/towels. Outside, there is a picnic table, and a propane grill with a lantern attached. Cinnamon Bay has it’s own beautiful beach, of course, so we doze in the sun for an hour or so, feeling a little tired from our lack of sleep the night before.

It’s late afternoon when we drive out toward the east side of the island (Cruz Bay is on the western point). The road is crazy steep with hairpin turns and barely enough space for two vehicles to pass each other. Feral donkeys are moseying around and munching grass on the side of the road. We take the road to Salt Pond Bay and watch the sunset from the empty beach, the silhouettes of moored sailboats swaying in the sea, black against an orange horizon. 

Driving back to Cinnamon Bay later that night, the radio plays the electric slide, reggae-style. Laying on my tiny cot, the coqui frogs are singing in full force, and that’s when I realize that they’re actually singing, “coo-kie, coo-kie, coo-kie.” I  must have been one of these frogs in a past life; it explains why I like cookies so much. Another voice adds to the cacophony; it makes me think of a woodpecker banging against a steel drum - tink tink tink tink. The crashing waves lull me to sleep, but every now and again I’m jolted by a thunderous, booming wave.

My Tropical Birthday Vacation!!!...has a bumpy beginning - U.S.V.I Part 1

January 18, 2013
We’ve just boarded our fourth and final plane, on our way to Virgin Islands National Park. This park is located on St. John, an island in the Caribbean. Since it is my goal to visit every American National Park, I am obligated to include this park as well, located in U.S. territory. I could think of worse things than escaping to a tropical island in the middle of winter.... And I’m so excited! This is the first time I’ll have ever traveled on my birthday, which is on Sunday, not to mention the first time of actually being warm on my birthday. As someone that has definitely grown a strong distaste for chilly temperatures, this is a special treat. (Oh yeah, and I get to check a national park of my list.)
Settling into our seats, Nick comments how smoothly our travels have been, considering we’ve already taken three flights today (Austin to Dallas, Dallas to Houston, Houston, to Miami, and now Miami to St. Thomas). Fast forward not even five minutes. The captain makes an announcement that the airplane has a mechanical issue. Fast forward another hour. The captain makes an announcement that it’s now too late to fly to St. Thomas airport, and our entire flight is rescheduled for 6:00am the following morning. Mojitos, anyone?

Sad faces because we're stuck in Miami. :(

Instead of mojitos and a first-class Cuban meal, we’re treated to a shuttle to Comfort Inn (where we feel as if we’ve entered a time warp back to the seventies) and vouchers to their buffet. It was a sad, dismal looking buffet, and I never would have paid to eat there, but I was starving. So I ate my tilapia and chunks of pork, and it wasn’t half bad. (And the brownies were actually good. All two and a half of them. I probably would have eaten more, but I only brought two back to our room.) You need to find the bright spots in moments like these. Oh, and a travel tip: If you ever find yourself in this situation: ask about your hotel options. The next morning, we discovered they also provided vouchers to Double Tree, which is a much nicer hotel.

Playa Guiones Beach and Why I Hate Bikes - Travels in Costa Rica (Part 7)

March 15, 2012
The 7:30am bus to Santa Cruz arrives at the hotel bus stop at 7:20. Thank god we got to the stop early. The bus fills up quickly. One quirky passenger uses his cane to poke a man boarding the bus in his large belly. Then, he put his fingers down the back of the man’s pants and tugs on his belt. The man doesn’t seemed amused, but I sure am. We pass by houses, sitting on the edge of the road or further back, solitary or lined up with a few others. These rural homes are small, but tidy and inviting. Most have pretty gardens, many have fences or gates, and some have wrought iron designs over the windows. Some are charming, some elegant, some beautiful. They look like homes I would like to visit, have a conversation with their owners. I wish I could walk through neighborhoods of these homes, but they never seem to be in the places we visit, only the spaces inbetween. We pass a mare nursing her colt and cows with big flaps of skin dangling from their necks. 

At the Santa Cruz bus station, we learn that a bus to Nicoya doesn’t leave from this station. Of course not; that would be too easy. A friendly “taxi” man drives us to another station for $3, and we join the long line already forming. Our bus is late, and eventually those in charge call out to the crowd to get on another bus instead. The line disintegrates, and it’s a mad dash to get on. We’re left standing on the crammed bus (I guess we’re not very good at dashing). At least we’re on. It’s a short half-hour ride to Nicoya, so it’s not too horrible, but my feet get achy from bearing the weight of my backpack while wearing flip flops. 
We are heading to Playa Guiones, a  tiny beach town near Nosara, and the bus doesn’t leave Nicoya until 2:30, three and a half hours away. Nick and I walk down the street and find a lovely city park, where we relax on a bench shaded by a large tree. We watch the most enormous iguana I’ve even seen munch on mangoes. We munch on mini bananas and pastry.

The bus to Nosara is quickly crowded, and we’re forced to sit for two hours with our packs in our laps. We arrive in Playa Guiones hot, sweaty, and dusty (and lucky that we got off only one stop sooner than we should have). 

The beach is simply enchanting in the evening. It’s a long stretch, and both ends have rocky cliffs with mist trailing out to the ocean. Waves break and break and break. The sand squishing through my toes reminds me of Connecticut beaches, of my home, of my childhood. We sit and take in the beautiful sunset. Already I’ve decided this beach is nicer than Playa Grande.

We eat dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, in an outdoor dining room with a band playing. All the other tables are occupied by Americans (and maybe some Canadians; it’s hard to tell). Where do the ticos vacation? I wonder. Surely they must travel around their own country... After dinner, we take a walk on the beach. Venus, sitting low in the sky, is so bright that it casts a glow on the water. Venuslight.

March 16, 2012
This is a nice beach. The sun is bright in a cloudless blue sky. The breeze is refreshing, without being so strong that it blows sand all over you. The water is cool, but not cold. The waves are powerful, but not overwhelming. It’s pleasant. It’s easy to spend the day here.

In the late afternoon, we walk to the other street in Playa Guiones. There are a couple nice jewelry/art shops, but I especially enjoy Robin’s Cafe, which has homemade ice cream.

March 17, 2012
We go out for “dawn patrol” this morning, when surfers check the waves at daybreak. Nick surfs, and I walk. Then we roam the streets, looking for the farmer’s market. When we find it, there’s not much, and no pineapple, which is what I really wanted.

Nick thinks it’ll be fun to ride bikes to the town of Nosara, about six kilometers away. I’m not so sure. Bikes haven’t really been my thing since I was a kid. Probably since I had to switch over to adult bikes, and now they’re always too tall. It’s a funny little hopping, tilting dance I need to do whenever I stop or plan to get off. And the seats hurt my butt. And I think it’s misery riding a bike uphill. I’d much rather walk; that way, I only have to drag myself. So, maybe I wasn’t approaching this adventure with the best attitude... We rent our bikes from the shop across the street and begin pedaling down the dirt road. The bikes have no gears, but I feel like I’m stuck in tenth. Even just to make the bike move on flat ground, I feel like I’m exerting an enormous amount of effort. Forget the hill up to the main road; I walk. Sections of the road are dirt, and every time a truck or car or motorbike or ATV zooms by, I’m left with dirt in my eyes and another layer of dust over the rest of me. The entire road, even the paved portion, is bumpy, uneven, and riddled with potholes. Every time I reach another hill, I have to hop off my bike and walk, pushing the bike along. And it’s not just uphill; I walk down steep hills, too, because the brakes barely work and the tires skid over the sandy dirt. I grit my teeth. I have a strong urge to kick my bike and hitch a ride back to the hotel with the next pick-up truck that passes by. But I keep going, my grip tight on the plastic handles that keep sliding off the metal handlebars... at least until Nick’s bike gets a flat tire. A brief scenario plays through my head where I scream out, “See, I knew this was a bad idea!” and take off, leaving him eating my dust, but I refrain. We’re left walking the last couple kilometers back to Playa Guiones and arrive at the bike shop hot, sweaty, and grimy. I don’t know if “fun” is the word I’d use to describe our bike ride... Really, I just need to learn to laugh it off, instead of letting my frustration take over. What’s the point? It certainly doesn’t change anything, and actually makes the experience worse. Negative emotions poison the moment, taint the memory. And why ruin the single memory of riding a bike in Costa Rica? Really, it’s not worth it. I will remember this next time I grumble.

Despite all the frustration, it is actually nice riding through Nosara, which turns out to be the first (and only) truly authentic Costa Rican town we visit. Not a single tourist in sight. Homes, a few shops, the produce stand, a couple sodas. It looks like at some point Nosara tried to join the tourism industry, but a dilapidated hotel and boarded up disco makes me think it wasn’t successful. I guess people wanted to stay closer to the beach. A lady walks slowly down the street, a horse’s version of a leash in her hand, and a young girl rides in the saddle. I’m happy to at least get a brief glimpse of Costa Rican life in rural towns.

At the market, I pick up the BIGGEST, JUICIEST pineapple I’ve ever had in my entire life. After dinner, I cut it up, and pineapple juice flows everywhere, dripping off the counter and down my arms. Mmmm, it is sooooo good. I think I could eat pineapple everyday and never get tired of it. While I savor dessert, the sounds of Spanish classical music played by a young man on his acoustic guitar trickles through the screen windows, and I savor that, too.

March 18, 2012
It is my last sunrise walk. I walk far, watch the sky grow pink, feel the cool breeze. I can’t resist picking up more shells; never in my life have I been anywhere with so many pretty shells - The currents must carry them all to the shores of Costa Rica. 

It’s a very relaxing day. We spend some time on the beach, playing in the waves of high tide and soaking up the sun. For some relief from the intense heat of midday, we escape to the shadows cast by palm trees surrounding the pool area. Then it’s back to the beach for another long walk (Nick catches a baby iguana!) and another pretty sunset. 

In our warm room with a barely existent breeze, we pack up to leave in the morning. I don’t mind. Three days at a beach is enough for me, as much as I’ve enjoyed it. But I will miss my morning walks.

Accommodations:
KayaSol
http://www.nosarahotelkayasol.com/
We stayed at this hotel based on a friend’s recommendation, and I’m happy we did. I almost made us reservations at The Guilded Iguana (practically across the street) based on TripAdvisor reviews. I don’t know about the rooms at Guilded Iguana, but I liked the set-up and restaurant at KayaSol better. KayaSol’s rooms are large yurt-like structures, or they have a couple buildings with two levels (two rooms on each floor). Our first night we stayed in a separate building because one of the cheaper rooms wasn’t available. It was huge. It had two large rooms, and there was a well-equipped kitchen area in one. Definitely more space than we needed, but great for a family or if you’re staying awhile and want to cook meals. Our remaining nights we stayed in a room in one of the buildings on the bottom level. We were happy that we still got a fridge! None of the rooms have air-conditioning here, so it’s pretty warm at night, even with a ceiling fan and all the windows open. We wondered if a room on the upper level would have a better breeze...
KayaSol also has a small pool area, which is a great place to escape the sun (the entire area is shaded by trees the entire day). There are a few lounge chairs that look very nice, but the hard wood makes them a little uncomfortable after awhile. I liked the pool area at Hotel Las Tortugas in Playa Grande much better, but it was okay because I’d rather spend time on the beach here, anyway.
KayaSol is in a good location. It’s a short walk to the beach, the surf shop is across the street, and the convenience store is practically across the street. There are a couple other restaurants and shops nearby, too.

Food:
KayaSol Restaurant
http://www.nosarahotelkayasol.com/#/restaurant/4550389597
In my opinion, this is the best place to eat in Playa Guiones. Everything we ate here is good, and the prices are good, too (and if you stay here, you get 10% off the bill). Anytime we tried to eat somewhere else, either the menu didn’t interest us, it was too expensive/overpriced, or it was closed (many places are closed on Sunday). I had the house salad and quinoa salad - both were great. If you’re sharing, get a full order; otherwise, a half order should be plenty. The black bean burger is really good, and Nick really liked the buffalo chicken sandwich (he ate it twice). A yummy appetizer is the nachos (I devoured them for my lunch one day). The chicken chipotle, barbeque wings, and caesar salad are good, but not our favorite. I was excited when I received the largest pour of wine ever, and for only 2,000 colones ($4). Granted, it wasn’t the best wine, or even that good of wine, but whatever, I was happy. I tried the ice cream sandwich for dessert our first night, and it wasn’t that great, so I skipped dessert the rest of the time.

Robin’s Cafe
http://www.robinsicecream.com/
It’s a short walk (maybe ten minutes) from KayaSol to the cafe, located on a nearby street. It has a small menu, but what interested me was the homemade ice cream. It’s a little expensive (1,700 colones for a small), but it’s good and refreshing in the sticky afternoon heat. I enjoyed the caramel oatmeal cookie flavor.

Activities:
Surf
http://www.nosarasurfshop.com/ (I think this is the place Nick rented his board from, but I’m not sure.)
Boards are available for rent at the surf shop across the street from KayaSol. They are $15 a day.

Ride Bikes
We rented our bikes from the surf shop for $10 a day per bike. I would suggest not renting their bikes. They suck. Also, when we returned with a flat tire, they couldn’t fix the tire or give us another bike. So, even if we wanted to, and even though we already paid, we couldn’t ride bikes for the rest of the day. There is another place down the street that also rents bikes (they didn’t have any bikes available when we wanted to rent), but hopefully they’re better.